Tuesday, October 4, 2011

So Close, yet soooo far....

I am so close to finishing training and swearing in, but yet so far from the end of this journey.

Where to begin...

I guess trainging. training is almost over. I am in Solwezi now with internet, after finishing my 3rd and final site visit where I got a chance to live alone in the village I will spend the next 2 years of my life in, but more on that later. Tomorrow we return to Chipembi to start are final 2 weeks of training. I have to pass my final language exam, as well as take my technical training test, but I am not worried about either. Two Land Cruisers have flipped over in 2 weeks. Only once was it full of trainees, and, thank God, all are alive and well. I am anxious to gtfo of there and get to site.

3rd site visit was amazing. It is a very long car ride to get to my district and site. One day we spend on the road from Lusaka to Solwezi, spend the night, and then the following day head out further west. When I showed up, no one really was expecting me to be there, so for the first hour I was entertained by a local drunk. There is alot of drinking that goes on here in Zambia. Culturally is it only acceptable for the men, but it is very prevalent due to the lack of work. Too many people are out of work...
Finally my counterpart, Edward Ngundu and my headman Mr. Kapupa came with my house key. I was home at last. I was able to unpack some things, and sweep the hut. I found my cat, Honkers, and discovered she has 5 baby kittens. They have all been claimed already by other Volunteers, and one for the provincial house. They are really cute, and it helps keep me less lonely at night when they are there meowing and crying for mom. I didn't really do much my first day, but walk around and see the fish ponds, and also refuse drunken request after drunken request from people that see the white guy as a free ticket to anything they want.

One man, wanted me to send him to Tanzania to continue school, so that he could then go and take car of his mother who "is crying, she's crying right now for me..." Constantly saying "God is great and God loves all, and shares." Christianity is all well and good, but anyone could lead these people to believe anything so long as it was in the name of Jesus. I went to my Catholic church on Sunday, and the "priest" was (I didn't know at the time) one of my fish farmers. He was dressed in a Green Bay Packer's Jersey with a cross around his neck. The mass was quite entertaining because customs here in Zambia say that all the women sit on the left side, and all the men sit on the right. I tried to "break the gender roles" like they want us to do, and I sat with the women. BIG mistake. there was a young girl about 14 (age to begin thinking about marriage here in Zambia) and she sat right next to me. she kept sitting very close, and every time I would inch over she would inch with me... Then all the other women kept handing me their babies to hold and play with, and this sucks because I am not the biggest fan children here in Zambia. PVCs who play with the kids and spend time with them, are known to be chronically ill throughout their service. They cough, and are really dirty.

>>Side Note: This is also one of the things I really admire though. American mothers are overly protective of their children. 99% of them, and if any mother wishes to contest that, please come visit, because what you consider not being overly protective, you have no idea. Here kids are allowed to be kids. they play in very dangerous places, they drink and eat out of and off of very dirty dishes, they run around all the time bare foot, kids 10 years old swinging axes.... It is awesome.<<

So anyways mass went on with alot of singing, with drums and guitar like instruments. But only scripture was read, there was no Eucharistic part of the mass, because like I said the "priest" is actually more just like a leader of the readings.
Also on Sunday I had my first meeting with my co-op. We started by introductions, me introducing myself and my family back home in Lunda. It took a while but I explained what I used to do, what I went to school for, who my brothers and sisters are, where they live, what they do, and how old. Also all about my parents and about Manie. Then it was on to business. The previous volunteer Adam has put together a very capable group of fish farmers. They have many ponds and are highly organized. He also started a project that was awarded a grant, but to see that through to completion is up to me. The farmers are concerned about getting a hammer mill to begin producing fish feed. It is a really good project but it requires bank accounts, lots of invoices, and logistics to transport and build everything. The last part of the meeting was bitching about how I do not want to be annoyed by drunken men wanting cigarettes or whatever else this miracle worker can do for them. It was a serious discussion, and the conclusion to the meeting was that I will build a very large fence around my house, AND that anyone who would like to have words with me, must first go to my Headman (my closest neighbor and the boss of the entire village) and ask permission to see Mr. Bryanie. Only if he deems them of a clear mind and with important enough business, then they may come ask for me.

So, that said Monday I went to visit the school and the clinic. I met all the teachers and discussed the possibilities of building a library in Kanzala. I also met the local doctor who is a very bright young kid. The trouble with age in Zambia is that is it very hard to tell how old someone is. It is nothing like in the Western world. Literally a man might look 30, but is actually 21, or he looks 25, but is actually 40. There are kids, adults (no matter what age they look about the same), and then the very old... Spent the rest of the day reading, cooking, doing laundry, and contemplating where I wanted my fence to be built.

Today, the final day, I decided to stake out where I wanted my fence to be, but instead I put to work an army of young kids and we went hiking into the bush to cut down trees. We dropped 25 perfect trees; straight, strong, and thick. Then I had them dig 25 really deep holes, and put the posts in. A project that was really simple and only suppose to take 10 mins, turned into a huge project that would have taken me 2 days on my own, but instead it was finished in 2.5 hours. Now that I am gone, I have left it in the hands of my headman and the co-op to cut the bamboo and grass, and to thatch the actual fence all the way around. It is going to look really good, because my Chota (cooking shelter) is very big and round, and has a beautiful new thatched roof. the fence intersects it perfectly through the middle, so I have a semi circle "castle" like thing sticking out of my Fortress America. I can't wait to return and see how it came out.

Lastly the RAINS!!!! Holy holy holy RAIN. I had my first real storm, because it is the beginning of the rainy season, and it POURED. I think I have seen it rain that hard maybe 2 or 3 times in my entire life. and the lightening was out of this world. for 5 hours straight huge loud claps of thunder would shake the area. I would look our my front door into pitch black, and every 1-2 seconds a flash would temporarily light up the entire area! I felt like I was in a movie about Vietnam, waiting for some viet cong to come creeping out of the banana trees towards my hut. I am really looking forward to the rains to come.

OK well, I don't have my camera, I left it in Carlsie's backpack in Lusaka, so I once again can not post any pictures. But, when I do there might be just a few on here, but most of them will be in the form of albums on my facebook page. It is easier to upload lots of pics there. Love you all and hope this suffices for a little while!

Friday, September 16, 2011

Sorry that my last post was so short, but it is very hard to upload pictures where I was because the internet is very slow. Zambia has taught me many things, but the biggest thing is that time slows down and nothing is immediate.

I just got off of second site visit, where I actually got to go to Hunter's village and hangout a while. On he way I also got to stop and visit my village that I will be posted in! Might site is pretty amazing. I have a cat named Honkers that just gave birth two 5 kittens that are not even a week old. I also have 50ish fish ponds in my area owned by a very motivated fish farming co-op.

There are too many things I see everyday to talk about, but I did hear a pretty interesting story about witchcraft at site visit. The low down is that any animal that is active at night is probably possessed or owned by a witch. Also women are more powerful witches then men. Witch doctors are ok because they help the villages find witches. AND all witches are afraid of tobacco, so as long as you are chain smoking cigarettes walking around at night, you are safe... but the story is about these "things" that walk around my area at night. I don't remember the exact name but will begin writting down these tales when I get posted. They are masks, that are made by very powerful witches. They have to collect the hair, heart, and shadow of someone so that with these items they can inchant the mask. Then, at night they command the mask to go out and either kill someone specific, or protect the area. It is said that you can die just looking them in the eyes, and if you see one in the woods to run. But basically these maskes come alive and walk around looking for people. The freaky thing is that there are some volunteers that have actually seen AND been chased by these things before! Its pretty wild, how far into the African bush I am being posted. Sometimes I have to remind myself that I am being placed directly in the heart of Africa.

Country elections are happening this week. It is a wild race between 3 big parties and tensions are running pretty high. It is pretty exciting to watch their process at work, but 29 people have died as of today! Don't worry though, we are all safe! But politics are so different here it is insane. Cars drive around all day with loud speakers ontop of them broadcasting campain speaches. Different parties will show up in our villages every other day and hand out chitenges (skirts/blankets), bikes, fertilizer for farmers, t-shirts, or anything else to get people to vote. In the village where we are training they just brought in a bunch of construction vehicles to "build" a road that they have been promising for years. They parked the bull dozer infront of the watering hole for a week and rebuilt the road about 2 miles to convince everyone in the area to keep the ruling party in place. But, the sad thing is that they only made the road look nice and added no gravel to it. So, come rainy season a month from now and after elections, everything is going to wash away and the village will have the same old shitty road. I won't mention party names, and I do not actually care who wins or not, but it is just fun to observe a political system so different.

Don't worry, By January these posts will be come much more regular. I have been kind of lucky to have extra access to computers recently, and I should be able to post again soonish. Love yall!

Saturday, September 10, 2011

I lied, I'm back!

Just bought more time because I was able to load pictures onto this computer!!! here are some shots and I think one video of the village I visited during first site visit singing to us!

Me at the wedding with a random cling on
Paul my language teacher
sorry they take forever to load I will get back with more later!

I made it to Zambia!

Hey everyone I know it has been a long time since I have last posted but it is really hard to get onto the internet when you only have a really shitty phone and no service. I am in Lusaka today shopping and getting ready for my second site visit. I am going to Hunter's site for the visit but also have the advantage of getting to see my own site and where I will be living on the way. I know this has to be a very brief post because I have already spent 23 mins of my 30 minute allowance just trying to load this page.

Training is going great. At our first site visit we everyone I went with got food poisoning. It was very interesting, but I blame it on the vegetarian lifestyle... Zambia is really amazing. I have never met nicer people in my life. Everyone here believes that everyone is brothers and to be free.  I am training in a place called Chipembi it is north of Lusaka and I am pretty sure that you can find it on Google Earth. I am staying with a really nice host family in Suse village. Michael and I both live there. It is really hard getting used to all the biking we have to do all the time, but hopefully soon my legs will be conditioned.


My language is Lunda, so I will be posted up in the Northwest province of Zambia. I am headed to the village of Kanzala right on the Kabompo river between Solwezi and Mwinilunga. Since I have been in training I have build a chicken house with my host family, acquired a sling shot that I am becoming very good with, but have seen no real "african" wildlife. Many years ago there was a bad drought in Zambia and to feed themselves the Zambians killed just about every living thing they could find besides each other. But there are lots of game reserves around that you can visit to see elephants and the like.

Staging in Philadelphia went over pretty well without much problems. I was running on very little sleep, and to make matters worse we had to catch a bus to New York at 2:30a.m. on Wednesday. I volunteered to be one of 4 team leaders, but after a night out in Philly with all the new friends I became only one of 2 leaders that morning to get everyone to Africa. It as actually really funny, and we all still tease Sam about it now and again.

I got to go see a traditional wedding the other day which was very fun! There is a lot of dancing involved and it is custom that when dancing or seeing the bride and groom to shove money down her chest into her wedding dress. I think it is really funny how different it is between America and here, and I will post soon about only that! But for example little 14 year old girls in the states listen to taylor swift and constantly are glued to their ipods and phones. Here in Zambia and most of Africa they are carrying 5 gallon buckets of water filled to the top perfectly balanced on their heads! I will post pictures and videos of everything I am explaining. I have great pictures of my host family, some of the other trainees, and of life in general so far.

Hope all is well back home, and I will try to get back on soon! Love yall much!

Monday, August 1, 2011

Time to fly, because time flies.

So the adventure begins, here 30 mins before my cellphone number goes dead, after calling many friends, and an afternoon of last minute shopping and rearranging/repacking all of my luggage...

Well to sum up this last two weeks: Fun, relaxing, decompression, more fun rafting w/ Tom (really going to miss you bro), swimming, and Bandit. I also got a visit from Bri, Elise, and Ashton during which time I realized that I am just amazing at making dreams come true. I got a chance to do lots of four-wheeling, helping dad out here and there (a little), and reading my book. Mom (I love you and you are amazing) slaved over her sewing machine time and again to prepare me for my African adventure! She made me a pillow protector for my new camping pillow, as well as some pillow cases for it. But even better, was the truly remarkable hammock stuff sack she made for me! I don't have a picture of it now, but I will put one up soon! It is even better than the one that the hammock came in, and looks very spiffy. Thanks mom! It was very nice to escape to Maine, it truly is God's country and surely the way life should be.

I just want to say that I am not very nervous... everyone keeps asking me if I am. But I do feel very anxious to get started. The anxiety is dulled due to the severe lack of sleep from last night. Even tonight I might get just a few hours. I do find it weird that after all the months of counting down, it is finally the last night. Its a weird feeling knowing that in two days I will be falling asleep on a completely different continent!

Tomorrow morning I head to the airport in Portland, Maine to catch a flight to Philadelphia. Tomorrow I will begin Peace Corps orientation at 2:30, and end at 7:30ish. No rest for the weary, we get to catch about 4-5 hours sleep (if I am not out catching a couple beers with my new friends) before we have to meet outside the hotel at 2:30am!!!!! We will then ride a bus to NYC and leave on a big jet around 11. I fly non-stop from NCY to Johannesburg, South Africa. It is a 15.5 hour flight and I intend to catch up on all this lost sleep then. I will first be stepping foot on African soil on Wednesday early in the morning, and pausing for a short layover. then TO ZAMBIA!!!!

I can't wait to tell yall about training, and what the people are like. I will most definitely be complaining about the heat, how hot it is, how much I'm sweating, and again about the heat... I apologize now in advance to all my family down south; complaining about the heat is nothing new, but I am sure that it falls upon sore ears. My only hope is that all my luggage makes it there in once piece theft and damage free.

I will surely miss not being just a text or phone call away from y'all, but I promise I will due my best to stay safe and have fun. I do not look forward to saying good-bye to mom and dad tomorrow, because I know deep down it hurts all of us a little or a lot. Tomorrow is a new day beginning a new chapter, I love you all! Please pray for me. Cheers!

p.s. I know I leave the country in times that are rocky and tough. There are many problems and issues that continue to arise and never find answers (or the answers we do find are lost in the battle for power and control). May God watch over, protect, and BLESS the United States of America!

Friday, July 15, 2011

Almost Home

So I am almost home but got an email with a bunch of information!

first for the official description of my position out of my welcome book:


Rural Aquaculture Promotion (RAP) Project :
Volunteers are helping the Department of Fisheries to develop fish-farming projects that will improve livelihoods in rural communities. After determining rural farmers’ needs and resources, Volunteers provide technical assistance in establishing dams, furrows, fishponds, and integrated agriculture. In addition
to providing an excellent source of nutrition for rural families, surplus fish and agricultural products are sold to provide substantial supplementary income. Volunteers provide training in small agribusiness skills to assist farmers in applying a business orientation toward their farming activities. Volunteers also help build the organizational development capacity of fish-farming associations.

Now for some contact information! My phone number as yall know it now will forever be discontinued. I will take my blackberry with me to Zambia and I will be getting a new number and local service over there, WHERE you can text me or facebook me pretty much all you want. no calls please, and the number will be posted as soon as I get the new phone plan.

ADDRESS: you can write to me for the first 3 months of service here:

Bryan Watkin, US Peace Corps/Zambia, PO Box 50707, Lusaka, Zambia


That is where I will be for a while. Tomorrow I go to Maine, and begin my final two weeks here in the US. It was a real treat to visit with so many friends and family members, but I know I couldn't visit with everyone. But, all will remain in my memory and prayers.

Mad love ~Bryan

Friday, July 8, 2011

"Deep" South Tour... & more (did I just rhyme?)

Hey yall, it is hard to believe that in just a matter of a few weeks I will be living on another continent. I finally received my staging materials, and I am booked on a flight to Philadelphia, at 7:07am on the 1st of August, where my staging event will take place. I report to staging at 12:30pm on the 1st and will begin my Peace Corps Orientation. I will sign paperwork, go over rules and regulations, receive shots, and most importantly begin getting to know all the other volunteers I will be working with over the next two years, and some of whom I am certain I will be friends with for a very long time. Everything is a GO for Africa in just a few weeks!!!!

North Carolina in all of it's Beauty


I have began my southern tour, but as usual not everything goes perfectly to plan (I know my plans are vague as is, but still). I left Greenville, SC at 5:01am very well under the influence after a night out at the bars in Brevard with Nick, Ashley, and Heather. I will miss North Carolina very much. I hope that when I come back I will get to see Harold and Theresa (saints on earth) still living next door to Oma.

 Got to Mississippi a little behind schedule, but had an amazing visit with Bill & Rebekah, and got to see how tall and smart my little nephew has become. I have a few pictures of the little guy who is amazing at swimming!!! Bill and I got to go fishing often and then retreat out of the boiling hot sun for the day. In the afternoons Bill and I got to pick the garden and swim with Bear, and in the evenings Rebekah and I got lost in stimulating conversations as the old timer hit the hay. Thanks Bill and Rebekah for everything, I really will miss seeing yall and watching Bear grow for yet another 2 years!!!






Bear can jump in without holding his nose, and open his eyes and swim under water on his own!!!








AND he is only 2!!! but definitely takes after his uncle Bryan with his good looks (and blue eyes)... :)





Then I got a chance on the 5th to go visit my Mere & Pere on my mom's side, and had an awesome visit! It has been a long time and we got to talk all about Africa and history about the family for the night and all day on the 6th. We got a chance to go celebrate mass, and have lunch with Claire and Aunt Moo. I can hardly believe all my cousins who I try to always remember as young kids with me are growing up! Claire is a Senior in college!!! It was an awesome visit, but had to end too soon.

NOW I am in New Orleans. Got a great visit in with young Catie, who I again can't believe is about to be a sophomore in high school!!! I just don't know where the time goes I guess. Also got to see Owen which was great, but too short as Owen and Catie headed north today.

Amtrak Rail Pass.... I thought it would make my life easy, but obviously I should read all the fine print more often. Train out of New Orleans tomorrow has been sold out, so I bought a plane ticket to Rhode Island for saturday instead. I am actually really happy this happened, because now I have an extra day to hangout and catch up with Megan, uncle Michael, and aunt Mindy. Today (in just a few minutes) I will be going into town to walk around the French Quarter, and in the afternoon go out in uptown with Megan and friends (one of which just so happens to be moving to Lusaka, Zambia in August also!!!! but not with the PC). I hate how my visits have to be so short. I enjoy my late night chats with aunt Mindy til 2 in the morning, seeing my uncle, and chillin with Meg swapping all the stories we can fit into a day. But just like every stop along this trip my visit to new Orleans is limited. 

So I have been to MS for 3 nights and days, Mandeville for a night and day, and New Orleans for 3 nights and days...
Soon I will be in Rhode Island, then CT for fireworks, then Matunuck 2 nights, Gansett 1 night, train to Providence to stay at craig's for 1 night, train to Boston, and rail to Leominster, a day and night with my dear friend and mentor Wes,day and night with best friend Nick, rail to Boston to hang for a day and night with my cousin Will (and CHLOE!!!!), lunch with Erin Saturday and then train to Portland to be picked up and driven home to Maine. >breathe< I KNOW that is not interesting, but I just wanted to give yall an idea of my remaining travel

That said, I won't be blogging until a few days before departure and then in Zambia. I will be in Maine, home sweet home, with mom, dad, and Thomas for my last 2 weeks in the states. I have alot of shopping and packing to do. lots of letting my mother stare at my face and "soak me in." I also look forward to a quiet wood porch on the west side of Birch Island sipping on a whiskey and sharing a cigar with my old man as we watch a few sunsets go down over Holeb pond. It has been and will be a very busy month, and just really look forward to getting Oscar Mike ("on the move") to Africa. Til next time Au'revoir!

P.S. ANYONE that would like to talk with me in Zambia will need to friend me on Skype: bryan.watkin